2015 Yamaha YZF-R1 & YZF-R1M Review | Track Test from Australia

2015 Yamaha YZF-R1 Test

2015 Yamaha R1 Review

2015 Yamaha YZF-R1 Review
2015 Yamaha YZF-R1

Literbikes on the street are – let’s face it – chronically over-specified. If you’re fortunate enough to own one, you likely attend track days, and if not, you’re probably thinking about giving it a go. And if you’re going to ride a very powerful bike hard, then you also want easy. These things unleash such power that they’re hard to hold on to; they’ll make you sweat when turning, and they create enormous g-forces when you’re on the brakes coming down from speed.

So everyone wants ‘easy’ – especially when it comes to riding fast on track. Even the great Valentino Rossi always had Jerry Burgess tune his YZR-M1 MotoGP bike to be exactly that, even at the expense of outright power. Then when Yamaha first thought up the crossplane-concept motor, they had several riders test it back-to-back with a conventional engined bike, and nine-time World Champion Rossi immediately preferred the new concept, dubbing it the “sweet” motor.

2015 Yamaha YZF-R1M and YZR-M1

Clearly Yamaha learned lessons from MotoGP (and arguably Rossi himself). The concept behind the all-new 2015 YZF-R1 and the  limited-edition YZF-R1M is “pure Supersport from the highest technology” – in other words, a street legal MotoGP machine. And Yamaha used the YZR-M1 as ridden by Rossi and two-time MotoGP Champion Jorge Lorenzo as the basis for the superbike.

Having taken the concept to heart, Yamaha’s overriding goal has been to make the new R1 not just easy to ride, but especially, easy to ride fast. They succeeded. This is the first machine where I have felt as though the electronics were designed as an integrated part of the machine–and not just added as an afterthought.

The 2015 YZF-R1’s 998 cc inline-4, crossplane motor reputedly puts out an eminently believable 200-plus horsepower (at the crank). We’ll put it on the dyno, but until then, I’ll simply state that the power is plenty. The bore has been increased, the stroke has been reduced to allow for higher revs, and larger titanium valves at a narrower angle help combustion efficiency. At 13:1, the R1 has a high compression ratio, and it inhales through a larger airbox with a straight intake tube.

Exhaling through a titanium exhaust and discreet single muffler, mid-range performance is helped by a servo-controlled EXUP valve that opens after 7500 rpm; this allows the engine to breathe even better at high rpm. New camshafts with more lift now operate on DLC coated rocker arms, and the forged aluminum bridge-box pistons with titanium con-rods easily handle the 14,000 rpm redline. Yamaha has also managed to reduce the engine’s width by almost one and a half inches. By using magnesium covers and spraying aluminum bolts everywhere, Yamaha also managed to clip a creditable 8.8 pounds off the predecessor’s engine weight.

Power is focused in the mid-range and high-rpm, and accelerating onto the straight at Australia’s Sydney Motorsports Park (aka Eastern Creek International Raceway) I felt it for sure, as the engine went from pleasantly agreeable to rocket ship so quickly and with such force I had difficulty hanging on.

Don’t get the impression that this engine lacks for low-down torque though, because it absolutely does not. Accelerating up the hill from Eastern Creek’s Turn 5 is typically taken in second gear, but just for grins I started using third and found an arguably better drive from the lower revs.

I also found that coming from the very slow right-hand Turn 13 it was easier to short-shift into third while leaned over on the right. This made it easier to use the low-down torque to drive hard down and through the very fast left-hand Turn 14, rather than try and grapple with the gearshift while leaned over to the left at speed.

2015 Yamaha YZF-R1M Test

What it all amounted to is that the breadth of controllable power in the R1 simply gave me more choices as a rider, and that of course led to better lap times coupled with a much more secure feeling than I have ever experienced.  The electronics systems are so seamlessly integrated into the motorcycle that I definitely felt safer with this level of power than I ever have before.

People nowadays talk about whether they are able to trust the electronics, and as an old-school type rider I typically have a hard time with that. Such is the intuitive nature of the 2015 Yamaha YZF-R1, I found myself pushing the envelope much further than I ever have previously, especially coming on the throttle harder and faster than I normally would even consider.

Of the four engine maps, the first three deliver maximum power with varying degrees of ferocity, while the fourth mode reduces power considerably for low grip (rainy) conditions. “A” mode is recommended for track use only, and experiencing full thrust from the crossplane four I can see why.

A six-axis “brain” interprets both gyroscopic movement and g-forces, and so it monitors pitch (back and forward); roll (side-to-side); and yaw (right and left). All that information is then extrapolated to allow for TCS—Traction Control (sensing of rear wheel slip); SCS—Slide Control (sensing that the rear wheel is actually moving sideways out of line with the front wheel); and LIF—Lift Control (aka wheelie mitigation).

There is also launch control where the revs are pegged at 10,000 rpm, allowing the rider to focus solely on clutch control, and a quickshifter for clutchless upshifting. Interestingly, Yamaha have omitted a blip-downshifter, which is rapidly becoming de rigeur on flagship sportbikes such as the MV Agusta F3, Ducati 1299 Panigale, and BMW S1000RR.

All functions have several levels, plus off, and the higher the number, the more the interference. The Yamaha Ride Control (YRC) allows for four group presets where each function within the preset can be tailored to the rider’s preference. The interface is highly intuitive, and functions can be switched on the fly via the clear to read, anti-reflective colored TFT instrument module that is switchable between a street screen and track display.

Downloading the data later from the YZF-R1M that’s upgraded with Ohlins suspension and carbon-fiber bodywork (the communication package is an option on the R1), I could see that I had used traction and slide control coming out of the final Turn 18 on to the straight. It’s a long, sweeping left-hand carousel that crests over a hill—but such was the confidence I had in the R1 systems that I was able to come on the throttle way sooner and much harder than I would otherwise have dared.

As the test wore on and my trust increased, I settled on TCS level 3, SCS 2, and LIF 1. I could feel the rear tire just starting to push in a gentle slide (and the data downloaded afterwards confirmed it) as I came hard on the power; not enough to scare me, but enough to thrill me for sure. The electronics kept everything perfectly controlled without making the engine feel weak or held back.

2015 Yamaha YZF-R1 Test

As I crested over the hill on to the straight the front wheel would come up. Early on and with the default setting of 3 (max lift control) I found the power cut to be too abrupt; in setting 2 it was improved, and finally in setting 1 it was perfect—allowing me to float the front wheel a few inches off the tarmac without having to come out of the throttle whatsoever. That’s one heck of a buzz–suddenly I was Jorge Lorenzo coming on to the straight at Mugello.

Standard on the YZF-R1M (optional on the R1) are some unique electronics, including Y-TRAC, Yamaha’s Telemetry Recording & Analysis Controller that is integrated with a built in GPS sensor and works in combination with an Android or Apple iOS App. The CCU (Communication Control Unit) allows data transfer by WiFi, and includes auto lap timing and 21 channels of data. After downloading everything to a phone or tablet, you can then overlay it onto a satellite map of the track and analyze your performance at every point. You could also download friends’ maps for comparison, and multiple laps and riders can be overlaid and compared with each other. It’s going to be much harder to BS your riding buddies from now on—no more “I was wide open into turn 8” or “I brake at the 50M marker”—‘cos the data don’t lie I’m afraid.

The all-new chassis is still a Deltabox aluminum frame, however it has a magnesium sub-frame with a 10 mm shorter wheelbase than its predecessor. Tipping the scales at a very healthy (claimed) 439 lbs. wet, this is a remarkable improvement over the previous R1, which was disappointingly heavier than its competition.

By moving the balance shaft weights to the outside two cylinders, and combined with the overall diet of the R1, we are now left with a lean machine that feels truly light and agile. Overall it is well balanced, with intuitive and neutral, precise handling. It simply goes exactly where it is pointed, and seemingly with minimal effort. Whether I was steaming into Turn 1 at around 110 mph, or negotiating the ridiculously slow and tight hairpin at Turn 11, the YZF-R1 simply did exactly as asked. It didn’t understeer, nor was it reluctant to turn into the fast corner, and neither did it flop or weave into the slow one. It just turned perfectly smoothly, as required.

The real test of its agility was transitioning through the combination of Turns 6 through 10, where the bike impressively went from maximum lean, to maximum lean, without any huge effort from me. Lofting the wheel slightly in mid-transition caused a mild headshake on landing, but the electronically controlled steering damper rapidly quelled it.

The standard YZF-R1 arrives with traditional-sized 43 mm forks and a single rear shock supplied by KYB; the YZF-R1M comes with Öhlins electronically controlled suspension. I tried the standard R1 in the morning sessions and I was immediately very happy with the stock KYB set up; it was exemplary. There are some bumpy corners at Eastern Creek but no matter what I did, I simply could not upset the chassis or handling. Turn in was totally predictable and neutral whether through the fast corners or the very slow hairpins. The rear shock has fast/slow compression damping, and the front fork has all the clickers within easy access on the fork tops.

The electronic Öhlins suspension on the R1M was a little more complex. The Öhlins has three automatic settings where the suspension is dynamically adjusted depending on lean angle, rear wheel speed and front brake pressure. It also has three manual settings that have up to 32 steps of individual adjustment that can then be stored into the three presets.

I used the R1M in Automatic mode, and accelerating hard through Turn 3 I discovered the rear of the R1M developed some wallow, which was mildly disconcerting. Essentially the system is constantly adjusting the settings depending on the loads at any given moment. I did find that the harder I rode the more it settled down (or the more I got used to it), but as it stands I’d consider the automatic mode to be an excellent street option, and for the track I’d use a manual preset with settings tailored to my riding.  To be fair, the Öhlins suspension is incredible, and once an owner gets it set up to their personal preference it will clearly outperform the KYB – but it will need some tailoring first. Thankfully the menu system is highly intuitive and any owner will quickly figure out how to make it his own.

Braking on the both the YZF-R1 and YZF-R1M is nothing short of spectacular. A unified (linked) braking system activates some rear brake depending on the amount of front brake being used. The rear brake can be operated independently, but since I rarely use the rear brake myself, it was noticeable how good the combined system is.

The electronic ABS works especially well, and the system allows for different levels of both that and the distribution between front to rear braking, depending on lean angle, wheel speed and front brake pressure. A track-specific ECU is available that deactivates the linked brakes and the rear ABS.

The noticeably linear feel at the Nissin master pump and lever I found once again, to be incredibly intuitive, and although the 320 mm rotors and Advics monoblock 4-piston calipers have enormous power, they don’t have that initial snatch that I dislike so much.

2015 Yamaha YZF-R1M Review

Coming down from the high speed of Turn 1 into the slow Turn 2 hairpin it was easy to over-cook it and come in too hot. One lap I knew I’d been a bit too greedy; to quote a famous Aussie I realized “my ambition had outweighed my talent.” So with heart-in-mouth I simply added a lot more pressure to the front lever and turned in anyway. Fortunately the R1 can handle these lapses in judgment, and the bike simply went round the turn with zero drama. Needless to say, I didn’t try that again.

Lightweight cast-magnesium wheels carry a 190 rear tire on the standard YZF-R1, but the R1M gets a wider 200 rear tire. Although the standard Bridgestones are a 55 profile in each size, I actually rode the R1M on Bridgestone slicks with a 200/65 rear tire. Due to the increase in circumference (and therefore gearing), Yamaha chose to go to a 43-tooth rear sprocket (from 41 stock) to allow for the change.

The stock Bridgestone Battlax RS10R race/street tires on the R1 worked very well, and the slight drifting I experienced coming on to the straight was predictable and smooth. The VO2 slicks on the R1M were awesome, although the extra grip cannot have helped the mild wallow I felt from the Öhlins suspension in automatic mode.

The looks of the new YZF-R1 are obviously straight from the MotoGP YZR-M1, with the underslung front LED lights giving a large frontal area to help the illusion. The YZF-R1M comes with lots of lovely carbon pieces, and of course that gorgeous brushed aluminum gas fuel tank among other detail touches. Redesigned bodywork, seat and rear cowling give the base YZF-R1 a complete makeover from the previous model; this new one is available in three color options – Team Yamaha Blue/White; Rapid Red/Pearl White; and Raven, that help it look purposeful and ready to race.

The R1 also comes with a nice array of extras and accessories, including a track specific ECU that restores full power to the US model; it also removes the top speed limiter (186 mph); disengages the UBS and rear ABS; gives race spec front ABS, and disables the lights.

Yamaha have raised the bar in the superbike wars with the 2015 YZF-R1, which will set riders back $16,490 ($21,990 for YZF-R1M). The R1 is so impeccably well mannered, and so easy and intuitive to ride that it will fool you into thinking you are a much better rider than perhaps you are.

For the intermediate rider who enjoys a few track days and plenty of street riding, the new R1 will keep you way safer than anything you are riding at present. For the lucky few who possess the talent and courage to really explore the outer edge of the performance envelope, you will be able to fit slick tires and a race ECU and still find the R1 capable of matching anything you can throw at it, no matter how hard you push. Yamaha’s new YZF-R1 brings new meaning to the word “superbike.”


2015 Yamaha YZF-R1 Specs:

  • Engine: 998cc, liquid-cooled inline 4 cylinder DOHC 16 valves 79.00 x 50.9mm
  • Compression Ratio: 13.0:1
  • Fuel System: Fuel Injection with YCC-T and YCC-I
  • Ignition: TCI: Transistor Controlled Ignition
  • Transmission: 6-speed multi-plate slipper clutch
  • Final Drive: Chain
  • Front Suspension: 43mm KYB inverted fork; fully adjustable; 4.7-in travel
  • Rear Suspension: KYB Single shock w/piggyback reservoir, 4-way adjustable; 4.7- in travel
  • Front Brakes; Dual 320mm hydraulic disc; 4-piston caliper, UBS ABS
  • Rear Brake: 220mm disc; UBS ABS
  • Tires: 120/70ZR17M/C front; 190/55ZR17M/C rear
  • L x W x H: 80.9 x 27.2 x 45.3 in
  • Seat Height: 33.7 in
  • Ground Clearance: 5.1 in
  • Wheelbase: 55.9 in
  • Rake (Caster Angle)24°
  • Trail: 4.0
  • Fuel Capacity: 4.5 gal
  • Fuel Economy: N/A
  • Wet Weight: 439 lbs./ CAL 441 lbs.
  • Colors: Team Yamaha Blue/White; Rapid Red/Pearl White; Raven
  • MSRP: $16,490

2015 Yamaha YZF-R1M Specs:

  • Engine: 998cc, liquid-cooled inline 4 cylinder DOHC 16 valves
  • Bore x Stroke: 79.00 x 50.9mm
  • Compression Ratio: 13.0:1
  • Fueling: Fuel Injection with YCC-T and YCC-I
  • Ignition: TCI: Transistor Controlled Ignition
  • Transmission: 6-speed w/multi-plate slipper clutch
  • Final Drive: Chain
  • Front Suspension: 43mm Öhlins electronic suspension w/ inverted fork; fully adjustable; 4.7-in travel
  • Rear Suspension: Öhlins electronic suspension w/ single shock w/ piggyback reservoir, 4-way adjustable; 4.7-in travel
  • Front Brakes: Dual 320mm hydraulic disc; 4-piston caliper, UBS ABS
  • Rear Brakes: Dual 320mm hydraulic disc; 4-piston caliper, UBS ABS
  • Tires: 120/70ZR17M/C Front, 200/55ZR17M/C Rear
  • LxWxH: 80.9 x 27.2 x 45.3 in
  • Seat Height: 33.9 in
  • Ground Clearance: 5.1 in
  • Wheelbase: 55.3 in
  • Rake: 24°
  • Trail: 4.0 in
  • Fuel Capacity: 4.5 gal
  • Fuel Economy: N/A
  • Wet Weight: 443 lbs.
  • MSRP: $21,990


Riding Style:


Photogrpahy by Alessio Barbanti, Henny Berno Stern,  Josh Evans


2015 Yamaha YZF-R1 and YZF-R1M Photo Gallery




  1. Great review. Seems to be extra superb bike for Sunday track ride!
    Every review I saw, every rider has been talking about how confident to open throttle earlier which is very curious for me.
    Really, really can’t wait to have that and ride in the track.

    But looking at video, this guy clipped apex bit earlier than the guy in front.
    I could be wrong though.

  2. Thanks @Timmy for the kind words. Yes, this is a superb bike; you can try pushing your personal limits further–and still stay safe–than would otherwise be possible.
    You are correct about the line, assuming you’re talking about the final sequence before the straight. The tighter line worked for me well enough at the time, but a couple of guys (including Ed Sorbo in front) felt the wider entrance into the second apex was the way to go for a better drive on to the straight. Although I didn’t try it, I suspect that with more time at the track (this was my first time there) they would be right. Ho hum, did my best :)

  3. I’ve already seen sales slips for people paying well over 25,000 for the R1M (keep in mind this is before financing charges kick in) . Which seems incredible considering these people have yet to even see what this bike can really do.

    Let’s face it. Yam is famous for overstating HP, understating weight, and overstating engine performance. This has been a staple in Yam marketing for as long as I can remember. And as far as the “sweet motor” comment is concerned. This is usually a way for journalists to say the motor has personality but no power.

    The highest I have ever seen a 2009-2014 R1 pull on a dyno is 148 rwhp (correct numbers) in stock trim. This being said, I’m sure it will be a fine bike, but groundbreaking – I think not. Additionally, these prices are getting outrageous. The average sport-bike consumer doesn’t have 20 grand in disposable income to spend on a toy. If the economy continues to stagnate and the prices on sport-bikes continue to rise I fear future R&D will suffer due to lack of funding.

    Time will tell. At the end of the day all the zero-to-hero nannies in the world aren’t go to replace skill. You’ll still see track day riders getting smoked by 10 year old 600’s if the rider is more skilled.

    I say start a weight reduction war, offer models without all the garbage at an affordable price and continue to work on interesting new ascetically different designs.

  4. Jay — I do understand your frustration, and certainly your observation about exaggerated claims have merit (remember the 17,000 RPM redline of the R6 a few years ago? LOL). But… having ridden the new R1 and the previous model, I can say there is a quantum leap in difference between the two bikes. The most obvious is the lack of weight on the new one. The first crossplane R1s were too heavy, the new one is right in the ballpark–and it feels like it.
    At the end of the day, value is a very subjective thing, and for every guy like you saying these bikes are too expensive–there will be others waiting to snap them up. Heck, that’s why dealers can ask a premium price on anything–and get it. You’re surely aware of every new whizz-bang gadget from iPhones to Xboxes that go for stupid money when they’re first released? Same here… this new bike is a big step and so for a short while the pent-up few will be prepared to pay a premium to be first in line; and good for them I say–I wish I was one!
    Your observation about skill being paramount–right on, totally agree. The electronic aids will not replace real skill. They will help a skilled rider go faster, and will potentially keep an unskilled rider safer; but ultimately a fast guy is a fast guy no matter what he’s riding, and you only have to attend a track day to see some people who really shouldn’t be riding the powerful machines they’re on.
    Reading between the lines your frustration seems aimed at the ‘continuing stagnating economy’ and boy, I can empathize with that. But I can honestly say–having ridden this bike–if I had the money, I’d buy one.

    I appreciate you taking the time to give us feedback and be a part of this community. Ride safe!

  5. First of all, thank you for the reply. My frustration towards the subject is more directed at every noob out there who is so quick to jump on the latest and greatest bandwagon with little to no knowledge on the subject.

    I’m a wrench turner and always have been. This said, custom and modded bikes are my passion. While I do have the money to buy one of the bikes if it was on my wish list, I simply have no interest.

    At the moment I own several bikes. My fav is a late model Gixxer thou with custom everything. I picked up this bike almost new from a guy who dumped it about ten minutes after owning it. The bike scared him and I bought it for a fraction of its worth.

    I then added cams, Akrapovic exhaust, lightweight sprockets, chain, brake discs, threw a PCIII on it and dyno tuned the bike. I can say without a shadow of a doubt this bike will waste any stock R1 (from 2000 – today). Not only in a straight line, but on a track. And that is where my problem lies. When I can buy a bike for 4-5 grand and dump a couple grand in it and then have this bike whip the latest and greatest why would I buy? To be honest, I haven’t seen the need to buy anything new since the mid 2000’s.

    In addition, every creature comfort and piece of tech added to a bike will up it’s maintenance intervals and increase the potential for bike failure. I have a buddy whose a big Duk fan. I literally quit riding with him due to the fact that his bikes were always breaking down.

    Lastly, the core demographic of the sports-bike community is 20 somethings. Most people in this age range simply don’t have this kind of money to spend on a sport-bike. This is why you can walk into any dealer and see last years models still overflowing the showroom floor. People can’t afford them or are simply unwilling to dump what could be a down for a house on a toy which will be outdated in a model year.

    All in all to each his own. I don’t get it, but like you said, there will always be someone who willing to throw down the cash on something. From what I hear, Suzuki is working on a Busa replacement. If they come out with something awe-inspiring with the same basic motor I may be in the market (due to how agreeable Suzuki motors are to modding). Other then that, I’m good.

    Thanks for your time.

  6. ha that’s so funny… my personal bike is an 07 Gixxer Thou that I use for everything from track days to sport touring. I’ve got an Ohlins TTX shock, Yosh full system and Brembo calipers, but otherwise it’s stock. It’s very pretty (see pic attached) cos I have a bunch of cosmetic Yosh stuff on it and a full AMA replica Yosh paint job from a couple years ago. It works like a champ and all my friends can’t understand how it’s so fast, it certainly keeps up with anything I come across. I do like the modern electronics packages and that’s what made the R1 so impressive, but at the end of the day, like you, I’m unlikely to change my machine for a while.

  7. Gorgeous bike and it looks like I ran into someone who knows what I’m saying. And it’s no surprise, the 01-08 motors are absolute monsters which are outrageously responsive to upgrades. I would say theses motors are the best possibly liter engine to start with if reliable power is your mission. Most major builders agree. 07 08 are probably the best track Gixxers or all time. I think the swing arm length and torque curve all have a lot to do with this, but I digress.

    My toy is a K6 with K5 fairings (like I said, owner dumped it and yellow is my favorite color). And I think I should clarify. I’m not anti-tech. I just can’t understand the lack of box checking options. For the most part, you’re stuck with whatever package the manufacturers throw together. In this case, we have both the stock R1 & M versions, but they’re both very very expensive.

    I truly believe if manufacturers offered multiple trim levels at a number of different price points the road would be chalk full of new bikes. What used to be price points for the affluent are now base prices for Japanese bikes. I can’t imagine this trend continuing and sales improving.

    Thanks for the share.

  8. I have to say you are 100 % right about the duck!! Wow a friend of mine loves them. Me on the other hand i and a jap bike owner. I allways tell him why do you buy them dam ducks, all you do is take them in for problems it’s crazy. I would never own a duck. He told me warranty is the thing so he does not care about all the problems with them. Now fter the warranty he says they are allways gone. Wow i said brother i am rideing and your bike is in the shop more then you ride it. You are right about them. I have allways own japan bikes, all sport bikes. Don’t want to make people mad this is just my thought on bikes. Ninja ok bike never but very cheaply made. had to o 636 and 1000. Suzuki gsxr was great back in the days but now well old needs a upgrade. honda they are good and very reliable bike, i never own one. I have owned 3 r1’s and all 3 were were great. 2001 and 2007 very good bikes. The 2009 that i do own now purchased new was not happy with it. Dam engine breaking was crazy you just could not enjoy the bike. so i did not ride it to much the first year and was not happy. Then i talked to a few of the people that i ride with and told him i did not like it. He said get your Ecu flash and then put a y pipe and exhaust, told me the two brothers sound the best on that kind of bike. so i did all that he said and WOW it’s the best bike i ever had. It’s crazy fast rides!! I ride with alot of people and only me and that guy who told me what to do. All i can say is i will be buying the 2015 and haveing it done to it. Me and 4 friends did a test 2009 r1 , 2011 gsxr 1000, 2007 honda cbr1000 and 2014 ninja zx10 . Well my 2009 killed all but the 2014 ninja by only a half of a bike. We all started in 2 gear. So you just need to ride a crossplane with all the gov regulations off and the say it slow. The bike is crazy fast 2009 but the ECU must be done or it’s a turtle! Lol sa for problem on it i had not one just a few recalls. Now Duck is a nightmare of problems with what my friend goes thro it is not worth it!! Beautiful work of art just like MV, but i like to ride not sit in a show room drinking there cheep coffee. I apologize if i have offended any one. Also i am not the best writer and was bored. have a great day!! Ride hard but ride safe and don’t stop for cops!! It’s a waste of time, you will just get a ticket. LOL

  9. Not sure I agree with you assertion of the Gixxers. Yes, the new Gixxers are a bit long in the tooth compared to the competition, but it just boils down to nannies.The s1000rr is what the k9 should have been.

    Suzuki turned their back on a winning formula in 2007 in my mind and went completely off the rails in 2009 when they changed the motor.

    My built K5 walks my friends 2013 ZX10 (with full exhaust and ecu flash) and I put my bike together for a fraction of the cost of his – which he is still making payments on). I’m also about 60 pounds heavier. The bike also has 50k on the odometer without a problem.

    I just can’t imagine someone dumping 20 some odd thousand dollars on a sport-bike. It just doesn’t compute.


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